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> No power to injectors again!, Got spark, gas, at a total loss
surfdogskier
post Oct 7 2019, 06:22 PM
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Oh my gosh!!!! She is back to doing this same thing all over again. I finally got her running . She ran fine one evening, parked her. Next day she would not start. No power to the injectors. I got spark. I got gas in the lines. Fuel pump works like it should. I took the distributor out and cleaned the trigger points to see if that would help. All wires are connected. MPS connected. All vacuum lines connected. I bought a noid light set up and they are definitely not getting power.

What else could it be? Something on the relay board? Bad relay?

This car is driving me insane. I am about to go duel carbs and drop this piece of **** fuel injection if I can't get this thing running.
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Mikey914
post Oct 7 2019, 06:27 PM
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It injection is the best way to go if you can keep it running. What motor?
All 4 I suspect trigger points.
Factory spacing is 23mm
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JeffBowlsby
post Oct 7 2019, 06:51 PM
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I know you said “all wires” but does that include the three pair of ground wires in the FI harness?
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JeffBowlsby
post Oct 7 2019, 06:52 PM
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Dup post, sorry
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surfdogskier
post Oct 7 2019, 06:52 PM
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QUOTE(Mikey914 @ Oct 7 2019, 08:27 PM) *

It injection is the best way to go if you can keep it running. What motor?
All 4 I suspect trigger points.
Factory spacing is 23mm

Sorry about that. 1.7. It is all four. I pulled the trigger points and cleaned them. The 3 wires look to be in good condition and the plug.
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surfdogskier
post Oct 7 2019, 06:54 PM
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QUOTE(JeffBowlsby @ Oct 7 2019, 08:52 PM) *

I know you said “all wires” but does that include the three pair of ground wires in the FI harness?

Yes. I actually stripped these down and put on new leads and clips.
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JeffBowlsby
post Oct 7 2019, 07:10 PM
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Remove the ECU from the FI harness. Leave the harness plugged into the relay board and turn the key to “on”. Do not crank the engine. Do you get 12V between ground and the ECU connector on the harness, at pins 16 and 24? The cavities are numberd on the ECU plug, look carefully.

If no, any change if you wiggle the harness?
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Mikey914
post Oct 7 2019, 07:25 PM
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Check power on 16 and 24 if not possible relay board issue?

I know Brad Mayer 914LTD has them rebuilt at about $200 which is less than I paid when mine went out.
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surfdogskier
post Oct 7 2019, 07:47 PM
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I will do that tomorrow and post back.....Thanks for the help.
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914_teener
post Oct 8 2019, 02:50 PM
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QUOTE(surfdogskier @ Oct 7 2019, 06:47 PM) *

I will do that tomorrow and post back.....Thanks for the help.


Ring out the wires on the harness as Jeff suggests.

Once you get the harness eliminated I'd seriously consider an electronic distributor like the 123 and never worry about it again. You can always upgrade your motor if you decide to go bigger later and just change the dip switch setting.
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surfdogskier
post Oct 8 2019, 02:50 PM
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In order to check the 16 and 24 pin, do I have to take apart the ECU and get inside it? The wire going into it. Can this be checked at the regulator plate?
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JeffBowlsby
post Oct 8 2019, 03:51 PM
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Yes to the first question. No to the second.

Slide the grey plastic cover off the ECU, and pull off the plug. You may be surprised at how easy it is once you do it the first time.
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jim_hoyland
post Oct 8 2019, 04:18 PM
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QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Oct 7 2019, 02:02 PM) *

Congratulations Lawrence. I loved your 914. Great looking car with just the right attitude. I am sure you will love the 911 and I wish you nothing but the best with it. The 3.0 is a terrific motor and with the limited slip 915 you should have lots of fun.

I have flip-flopped back and forth between 911's and 914-6's for the last 40 years. In the end the 914-6 was the winner for me. I may buy an '89 Carrera coupe one of these days if I am around long enough. That is the only 911 I really want to share the garage with the 914-6.

Cheers and I hope to see you soon.
Michael (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


What's going on at 16 and 24 ? Power coming inputs ? Or ?
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surfdogskier
post Oct 8 2019, 05:41 PM
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QUOTE(JeffBowlsby @ Oct 8 2019, 05:51 PM) *

Yes to the first question. No to the second.

Slide the grey plastic cover off the ECU, and pull off the plug. You may be surprised at how easy it is once you do it the first time.


Thanks for clarifying. I looked and thought I had to pry all those clips up and then bend them back.....I will go from there and post back.
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surfdogskier
post Oct 8 2019, 06:21 PM
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I do have 12v at 24 and 16.
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IronHillRestorations
post Oct 8 2019, 06:25 PM
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Just because you cleaned the trigger points, does not make them work.
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IronHillRestorations
post Oct 8 2019, 06:32 PM
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Just because you cleaned the trigger points, does not make them work.

Where are you in east TN? I'm moving to Charleston, near Cleveland
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JeffBowlsby
post Oct 8 2019, 07:12 PM
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Then you have power to the ECU. Somewhere between the harness plug and the 2 wire injector connectors is the discontinuity. The trigger points initiate the voltage pulse to the injectors. The ECU processes the several engine sensors to determine the pulse width. No power to the injectors at idle could be worn out trigger points, a bad ECU, disconnected injector grounds, bad harness wiring. Maybe more. I would check the trigger points as has been mentioned, use an ohmmeter. Pull the dizzy, or check it in the car while cranking. You are looking for alternating continuity between the center pole and each of the two outer poles as the diz is rotated. No continuity, no pulse, no voltage, noid light no worky.
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surfdogskier
post Oct 8 2019, 07:26 PM
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QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ Oct 8 2019, 08:32 PM) *

Just because you cleaned the trigger points, does not make them work.

Where are you in east TN? I'm moving to Charleston, near Cleveland

I live in Sevierville. Charleston is about 2 hrs away.
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surfdogskier
post Oct 8 2019, 07:29 PM
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QUOTE(JeffBowlsby @ Oct 8 2019, 09:12 PM) *

Then you have power to the ECU. Somewhere between the harness plug and the 2 wire injector connectors is the discontinuity. The trigger points initiate the voltage pulse to the injectors. The ECU processes the several engine sensors to determine the pulse width. No power to the injectors at idle could be worn out trigger points, a bad ECU, disconnected injector grounds, bad harness wiring. Maybe more. I would check the trigger points as has been mentioned, use an ohmmeter. Pull the dizzy, or check it in the car while cranking. You are looking for alternating continuity between the center pole and each of the two outer poles as the diz is rotated. No continuity, no pulse, no voltage, noid light no worky.

Not a big deal to take her out. I will pull it tomorrow and try this....Thanks again for all the help Jeff. Much appreciated.
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