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> Suspension and Brake Refresh, New Wheels and Suspension Adjusted
porschetub
post Jan 5 2020, 11:30 PM
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The adjusters will be way out of range,so as mentioned the torsion bars need to be turned 1 notch,I had interference with the valance on one side only because its a really crappy f/glass one that is a bad fit and to long on the RH side,that happened when I lowered around 38mm from stock.
I remember having original 5.5 Rivs on my one yr only euro 66 beetle,certainly filled out the guards .
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Mark Henry
post Jan 6 2020, 09:21 AM
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As others have said you're way too high. I wouldn't stick to the factory height spec, I'd aim for level the bottom fender lip to the top of the tire, or even a 1/2" or so lower.

I run as much caster as I can, stock I doubt if you can get any more than 7 degrees which would be OK. This will move the wheel back slightly. More caster makes for harder low speed turning but better high speed tracking.
IIRC -.5 degree camber, and about 7 degree caster with 1/8" toe in is the sweet spot for a stock(-ish) performance street car.
My '74 teen I'm running -.75 degree camber and about 6.5 degree caster, which was the best I could do on one side.

Just an FYI, if you adjust your ride height you have to check the alignment, or you'll have bad tire wear.
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tvdinnerbythepool
post Jan 6 2020, 12:25 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 6 2020, 07:21 AM) *

As others have said you're way too high. I wouldn't stick to the factory height spec, I'd aim for level the bottom fender lip to the top of the tire, or even a 1/2" or so lower.

I run as much caster as I can, stock I doubt if you can get any more than 7 degrees which would be OK. This will move the wheel back slightly. More caster makes for harder low speed turning but better high speed tracking.
IIRC -.5 degree camber, and about 7 degree caster with 1/8" toe in is the sweet spot for a stock(-ish) performance street car.
My '74 teen I'm running -.75 degree camber and about 6.5 degree caster, which was the best I could do on one side.

Just an FYI, if you adjust your ride height you have to check the alignment, or you'll have bad tire wear.

Thank you EVERYONE as always!

I am going to switch to stock wheels and tires, and this ABSOLUTELY needs an alignment. I Agree. The stock formula led me astray. I agree with @MarkHenry as a place to aim with ride height and other specs.

I appreciate the input and will report back when I have made some more progress.
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mepstein
post Jan 6 2020, 12:31 PM
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Hang in there. It will be worth it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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rhodyguy
post Jan 6 2020, 12:38 PM
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I think those instructions are to achieve ride height for USA specs. The illustration shows the control arms lower on the wheel side. You'll want them more parallel to the horizon. As it sits, the valance is closer to nearest point of the tire circumference.
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tvdinnerbythepool
post Jan 22 2020, 07:51 AM
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Ok guys, I lowered the front end back down to roughly where you guys said and I have good clearance again from the front valance.

Took the car to Les Schwab for an alignment. Car tracks straight but is too bouncy. I believe this is due to the rear springs being on the highest setting. Can't lower it due to the tires being too big for the Rivieras but I think I've found wheels down in AZ that I can pick up that should allow me to lower the rear end. I was warned that this may happen earlier in the thread having the sping that high up so i wasn't shocked. Overall the ride is still WAY better than the 50 year old rubber and springs.
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Question is this....I can NOT get the brakes to LOCK up. Car stops straight and seemingly well but I can't get front or rears to lock up. Is this normal for a 914 or do you think there is still air in the system? (New 19mm Master, rebuilt calipers, all new pads/rotors/soft lines)

I had to bleed 3 times to get the pedal to feel firm but still suspect maybe something is up. I figured the fronts would lock but I don't remember doing this before i rebuilt the system

Thanks all! -Rob
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mepstein
post Jan 22 2020, 08:10 AM
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Did you bed in the pads. It’s very important. Eric has a video on his pmb site but basically a couple hard stops from speed but let off right before coming to a complete stop. Get pads and rotors nice and hot and then easy driving while they cool.
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tvdinnerbythepool
post Jan 22 2020, 09:33 AM
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@mepstein yep, I did the procedure to brake them in for sure
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tvdinnerbythepool
post Jan 24 2020, 07:54 AM
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Anyone able to lock up their brakes on their cars? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Can't get mine to lock, wondering if I still have air in the line or it's a 914 thing???

Thanks
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yeahmag
post Jan 25 2020, 10:22 AM
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Is the pedal going to the floor or does it feel firm as you are trying to lock the brakes? What pads are you running?
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tvdinnerbythepool
post Jan 25 2020, 01:59 PM
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@yeahmag

Pads are Textar and the pedal stays firm and does not sink to the floor.
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mepstein
post Jan 25 2020, 02:21 PM
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I would do another round of bedding the brakes. Sometimes it takes a while to wear off the factory coating and get the pad to bite into the rotor. You should be able to lock them up. Make sure rear pad clearances are correct and that all 4 sides are getting hot after repeated braking.

People don't like to get new rotors with rust on them so I bet the factories put a thick coating on the rotors to the detriment of initial braking.

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tvdinnerbythepool
post Jan 25 2020, 03:30 PM
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Thanks @mepstein wilco!
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tvdinnerbythepool
post Apr 13 2020, 08:27 PM
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Attached Image

Got these awesome Steelies from Sierra Madre and hubcaps from a member, so happy with how it turned out! Mostly solved the riviera wheel rub issue although these 195s are just barely squeezing into the right rear. Was able to lower the Bilsteins to the 3rd from top with the 914rubber springs and I'm very happy with the results!
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914werke
post Apr 13 2020, 08:54 PM
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DAMN! Looks great!
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bigkensteele
post Apr 13 2020, 09:09 PM
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That looks fantastic! Love steelies with the right stance.
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PanelBilly
post Apr 13 2020, 09:11 PM
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Looks old how does it track?
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